Ever since the M.A.D 1 debuted back in 2021, it’s been one of the biggest independent success stories in accessible watchmaking, a watch that channels the mechanical art ethos of MB&F’s sister gallery into a signature, front-facing turbine design. And over the last three years it’s only gotten more colourful, with the latest in collaboration with designer Jean-Charles de Castelbajac the most playful yet. Bottom line, it’s cool and we love it. But even something as cool as the M.A.D 1 can be improved – case in point, the MB&F M.A.D.1S.
Coinciding with the start of Geneva Watch Days this week, the MB&F M.A.D.1S is a welcome evolution of the initial design. That S makes a difference in two different ways. Firstly, the M.A.D.1S is slimmer and more streamlined than the original. It still has that same kinetic impact, the unobstructed view of the front-facing rotor, but does so in a bit more of a wearable size. Specifically, it goes from 18.8mm thick to 15mm, a substantial drop. I imagine that’s a godsend for the collectors that have told me that it was the thickness putting them off.
The reason for that downsize is twofold. First, it has a single cylinder display rather than the M.A.D 1’s dual cylinders (one for seconds, one for minutes). The second reason ties into the more important reason for the S: the M.A.D 1’s first Swiss movement. For a brand like MB&F, that seems incredibly strange. This is one of the most intense haute horology workshops around, with some downright insane models on their books. Why weren’t they using Swiss all along?
The simple answer is because there wasn’t one that worked. The initial brief of the M.A.D 1 was to remain accessible, while offering an incredibly fast spin speed to create that movement on the dial. To get that spin, the rotor needed to be unidirectional; the bidirectionality of most rotors, designed for more efficient winding, actually slow that spin down. And 3 years ago, there was no Swiss movement in that price range that worked.
Now, the third party, microbrand favourites at La Joux Perret have stepped up to the plate with the G101, a twist on the famous G100 that beats at 28,800 bph (4hz) and offers a substantial 68-hour power reserve. LPJ consistently seem like they’re on the up and this is just more proof. The fact that it’s led to a slimmer, more wearable profile is just the icing on the cake.
To suit the slimmer profile, the MB&F M.A.D.1S lugs have been redesigned and the signature rotor has been revamped a little to offer a clearer view of the movement. Otherwise, it’s the watch we know and are mildly obsessed by, in two sleek variations.
The first is for friends of the brand – owners and suppliers – and will certainly stand out in what I now consider MB&F purple (a gorgeous royal colour). For the rest of us, there’s a slightly more subtle ice blue version. Either way, getting hold of one is going to be easier said than done – and to keep things fair, MB&F are running a raffle, opening at Geneva Watch Days. If you want one, that’s your best shot, so keep an eye on MB&F’s website. And if I see anyone flipping one for tens of thousands, I will find you.
Price and Specs:
More details at MB&F.
