Sometimes there can be a bit of a disconnect between what watch collectors in a general sense think a watch should be and what the professionals actually using those watches need. That disconnect comes in myriad forms, but the one that stands out the most is a grudge match that’s been happening since the late 1970s: quartz vs automatic.
Automatic is, of course, the more prestigious of the two, purely mechanical and theoretically eternal – with a bit of servicing, of course. But the problem is, they’re simply less accurate and less reliable than their battery-powered siblings – which is why you often find that watches squarely aimed at professionals use quartz. After all, when accurate timekeeping is more important than resale value, there’s no competition between the two.
ProTek Official USMC Series, quartz (PT1016D)
It’s no surprise therefore that ProTek, who have been unashamedly building watches for the military, have thus far relied almost entirely on quartz movements. Unlike other brands, for them it’s never been about cost (quartz being markedly cheaper than mechanical), otherwise they would have settled for standard lume instead of the intense H3 gas tubes they’ve made their name with. Instead, it’s always been about building the best tool for the job – even when (or especially) when those jobs are off the books.
ProTek Automatic Carbon Composite USMC Dive Series (PT1212)
The thing is, if you make watches for a certain sub-set of professionals that do the job and look good doing it, you’re going to get other people interested, especially when those same characteristics make for a solid overall diving watch. And while the United States Marine Corps likely still want the tactical benefits of quartz, for collectors who simply love the intensely rugged aesthetic of ProTek’s USMC collection, an automatic movement would seal the deal. So, that’s what the brand has done.
The new USMC Automatic collection does what it says on the tin. It has the same gloriously chunky 42mm case in lightweight carbon composite; it has the same ratcheting unidirectional diving bezel with absurdly large grips and the same 300m water resistance, tested for once in water as well as air pressure. In short, it still looks and feels like the kind of Expendables-level hardware a spec ops unit needs.
ProTek’s Pro-Glo illumination system
It even houses ProTek’s signature Pro-Glo illumination system, which we’ve covered previously. For a quick recap though, their watches use tritium gas tubes which glow under their own steam – no need to charge them – for 25 years. Oh and they’re 100x brighter than conventional lume.
The only difference between the previous models and these is that the reliable Japanese quartz movement has been replaced by a reliable Japanese automatic, swapping the Miyota for a Seiko. If you want reliability and accuracy at an accessible level, you shop Japanese and the workhorse Seiko in the new USMC Automatic models is a watchmaking staple for a reason. It’s also one of the most ubiquitous – and therefore easily serviced and repaired – movements around, just in case the worst happens.
ProTek Stainless Steel Automatic 2200 Series
While the use of an automatic means that you will need to sync watches before a mission, it also means you won’t be left high and dry because you forgot to put in a battery – and means that both the superb Pro-Glo Illumination System and the movement are completely autonomous.
Of course, if the USMC watch is a bit too militaristic for you, ProTek has also updated their more style-conscious Series 2200, which offer a steel case and more colourful options for more everyday wear. The ethos is the same, offering a new autonomous movement to collectors put off by quartz, just in a more casual package.
ProTek Automatic Carbon Composite USMC Dive Series (PT1212)
So, what about price? Well, as I mentioned previously, automatic movements are generally more expensive than quartz, often by orders of magnitude. Here, not so much. The previous price for the quartz-equipped USMC Dive model was $495 (approx. £380), which for a watch with a carbon case, unique design ethos and tritium gas tubes is downright insane, regardless of movement. The automatic? That’ll set you back just $200 more.
Pair that uber-accessible price tag with some eye-catching new dials – the red in particular pops like nothing else in ProTek’s range – and you have a new heavy-hitter in sheer value. Yes, anyone taking their watch on a night mission will likely still opt for the original quartz USMC pieces, but for those of us that prefer the long-lasting autonomy and, yes, prestige of an automatic watch, the new collection absolutely nails it.
More details at ProTek Watches.
