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Hong Kong Watch Fair 2024 Showcases China’s Watchmaking Rise

Hong Kong Watch Fair

The Hong Kong Watch Fair 2024 took place last month for the 43rd time and for those seeking to discover new brands, a more relaxed attitude and insights into the Asian watch market, it’s the place to be.

Featuring over 700 exhibitors from 15 countries, the fair highlighted both established and emerging brands, with a focus on innovation and craftsmanship. While it lacks the overt luxury feel of shows such as Dubai Watch Week and Watches & Wonders, it has an inclusive feel that I haven’t experienced before. As soon as you enter the vast Hong Kong Exhibition Centre, it’s clear to see that this is a 360-degree approach to a fair, with everything from packaging, machining equipment, parts and components on display. However, with my focus being new watches, I headed to the Salon de TIME to discover new brands showcasing some interesting Chinese watchmaking I’m simply unable to get hands on with in the UK.

Hong Kong Watch Fair

Historically it’s been easy to be dismissive of Chinese watchmaking but over the past decade the growth, especially in the mid-sector, has been unparalleled. While the Swiss market is still the top player when it comes to luxury, China is almost single-handedly responsible for creating a new style of mid-tier watch. By which I mean the emergence of brands creating haute horology focused watches at a fraction of the price of Swiss and European competitors.

Behrens Ultralight Weight 20G

Behrens Ultralight Weight 20G

Whether it’s Behrens lightweight creations (like we saw at Geneva Watch Week), Agelocer’s super accessible tourbillons or Lucky Harvey’s whimsical gambling functions, it’s worth keeping an eye on the creations coming out of the Shenzen industrial area. And it’s not just the bold and brash creations that drew my eye, companies like Bejing Watches and Seagull have seen massive growth and produce some incredible value, classically designed watches.

AGELOCER Flying Tourbillon

Agelocer Flying Tourbillon

This rise is also driven by China’s robust manufacturing capabilities and increasing interest in wearable tech and smartwatches. Chinese brands have adapted well to market demands for tech-savvy watches, offering a blend of tradition and innovation. Smartwatches, which are gaining popularity globally, also had a significant presence at the fair, positioning Chinese brands as contenders in both traditional and modern watch categories.

Hong Kong Watch Fair not only highlighted these trends but also facilitated business networking, discussions on sustainability, and the future of watchmaking. This year’s edition saw forums discussing market forecasts and technological integration in watch designs, further emphasizing China’s influence in these growing segments. As Chinese brands continue to innovate and blend traditional craftsmanship with modern technology, their global presence in the watchmaking industry is only expected to grow.​

More details at HKTDC.

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About the author

Tom Pettit

Born into a family of watch lovers, Tom is both co-founder of Oracle Time and the driving force behind its creative direction. A lover of retro watch design, surfing and the great outdoors his usual glasses are nicely rose-tinted.

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